I'm Getting a Puppy!!

Yes, you heard right. It is really happening now. I am getting a puppy in August, which is a little sooner than I had planned, but I was offered a puppy in a litter from an amazing breeder, and I just couldn't say no.

I am getting a male puppy from a litter bred by Meghen Bassel of Statesman Welsh Springers. The mother is Ch Slapestones Sea Breeze or "Farina". It is a dual sired litter(which I admit I didn't actually know was possible in dogs!) with the fathers being 'Carson' Ch Bentcroft Statesman's Logo, WD and/or 'Cecil' Ch Statesman's Nearco. Meghen tells me that they will DNA test each of the puppies to determine the father of each. How cool is that?? The puppies just had their two week birthday yesterday.

This is not a decision I took lightly. Josh and I had originally talked about getting a puppy near the end of the year. We had a couple breeders we were interested in that were breeding fall litters. But when I got the e-mail from Meghen saying that she had an available male puppy from a 1 week old litter, it was just too good to pass up. First of all I really liked the idea of having a Statesman puppy. I think they breed gorgeous and healthy dogs with excellent temperaments. There was also the fact that we knew for certain we could get a male puppy from the litter(it is a litter of 6 boys!), which is very important to me, since Kiba doesn't particularly like other females as much. And there was the distance, which wasn't as much a limiting factor for me in terms of getting a quality puppy, but when it came down to a couple breeders that were all excellent, it was a consideration, especially for Josh. Statesman Welsh Springers is in Georgia, and the other two breeders we were looking at were in North Carolina and Michigan. And after Josh and I talked about it some more, we decided that getting a puppy in August might actually be better timed than getting a puppy later in the year, when things can be hectic. Cost was a factor, but with me getting a new job as a full time vet assistant and Josh possibly getting a raise soon, that shouldn't end up being a problem.

So now the puppy planning really begins! My puppy will be ready in early august, so I have less than 2 months to prepare for his arrival. Plan on seeing many more updates here as I work on my training and socialization plans, and post updates on my new puppy! I'm so excited!!!

Puppy Mouthing and Chewing

This is the second handout I wrote for my clinic. This one focuses on mouthing and chewing.

Puppy Mouthing

Puppies, like children, love to play and explore their world. They want to investigate and touch everything. Unfortunately, since puppies do not have hands, they tend to investigate new things and play using their mouths. And when that object of interest is your hand or other parts of your body, those needle sharp teeth can be very unpleasant! Luckily puppies can be trained to have a “soft mouth”, also known as bite inhibition.

During play, allow your puppy to use his mouth on your hands, but pay very close attention to the amount of pressure he applies. As soon as that pressure gets to hard, or when it starts to feel uncomfortable for you, shriek loudly with “ouch!” This will probably cause the puppy to stop what he is doing and look up at you. Then he will most likely continue playing, which is fine. If he goes back to mouthing hard again, or ignores your “ouch!” altogether, then immediately get up and end the play session. Ignore him completely for a minute or two, and then resume play. Once again when his bite pressure gets to great, repeat the above exercise. This is teaching your puppy that human hands are sensitive and hard mouthing ends the play session. When he has learned not to mouth at that pressure, up the criteria by now not allowing bites of mild pressure. Once he is good at that, continue to lower the amount of jaw pressure that needs to be applied to end the game until even gentle mouthing gets him a “game over”. This may take several play sessions over a few days. Dogs and puppies are extremely good at controlling their jaw pressure; we just have to teach them when to do it.

Once your puppy has learned that mouthing hands and other human body parts is off limits, you will need to be very consistent with your rules. Any time your puppy makes a mistake during play, that play session should end immediately. There must be very clear consequences to making a mistake.

Chewing Objects

Another problem we often run into with new puppies is the chewing of unacceptable objects. Puppies will put anything and everything in their mouths! It is up to us to teach them what the acceptable chew toys are, and that anything else is off limits.

Until you can be sure that your puppy understands completely what objects he can and can’t chew, all forbidden objects should be put up and out of his reach. Remember that while it may be obvious to us that a doggy chew bone is okay to chew while your expensive new shoes are not, to an untrained puppy there is no difference in the two. He must be taught the difference. So while he is in training, it is extremely important that he not be allowed to experiment with chewing forbidden objects. This also means that your puppy should always be under direct supervision, and when he is not he should be confined to a crate or other enclosure.

Give your puppy plenty of acceptable items to chew on. Experiment with different types of chew toys to find his favorites, and frequently rotate the toys, exchanging old toys with different ones, so he is never bored. Try toys that are hollow inside, and stuff them full of treats and kibble. Play fun games with his chew toys, and encourage him to play with them often. Your goal is to teach him that the most fun things to chew are his own toys.

Once he has developed a liking for his own chew toys, you can test him with a training exercise. Take several of his favorite chew toys, and one forbidden object (make sure it is not something extremely valuable to you!). Place the items on the ground, and then allow your dog to investigate them. If he chooses an appropriate toy, then praise him excitedly and play with him using the toy. If he happens to choose the wrong item, ignore him completely. Wait a moment to see if he tires of the item and goes to a correct item. If he does not, do not yell harshly or move toward him. Instead, interrupt him with a loud “ah-ah!” This should cause him to look up from then item, allowing you to then direct him to an appropriate toy.

If you find that your puppy has found a particular forbidden item that he is very determined to chew, then you can try a taste deterrent on that certain item. There are many different types of these products; often you can find them in pet stores in the form of a spray bottle. You may need to try out several different types before you find the one your puppy finds to be most offensive.

One more thing to remember with chewing is that it is not only puppies that enjoy and need to chew. Do not assume that when your dog has finished teething he will not chew anymore, adult dogs love to chew as well. Chewing is a pleasant and relaxing pastime for the dog, and it helps keep the jaws in top shape and the teeth clean. Be sure to continue to provide your adult dog with many chew toys as well!

House Training Your Puppy

This is a handout I wrote to give out to new puppy owners when I worked at a veterinary clinic. I though I would go ahead and post it here because it has some useful tips on housetraining.

There’s nothing more wonderful than a new puppy, right? Those warm puppy kisses, wagging tail, playful yips, a furry little body cuddled in your lap….and then that little puddle you just noticed on your favorite rug. Ok, so puppies are not all fun and games. In fact housetraining issues are one of the most common problems that new puppy owners have with their furry little friends, but it doesn’t have to be that way. By staying patient and following these simple guidelines you’ll be well on your way to a reliably housetrained dog in no time.

The Crate

There is by far no better tool used in modern housetraining methods than the dog crate. Used correctly, the crate not only prevents accidents in your house but also keeps your puppy from getting into trouble when you are unable to supervise him completely. Crates come in several different varieties, the two most common being plastic and all-wire crates. Both types work equally well, and it is up to you to decide which one will be most suited to you and your puppy. The most important thing to remember when purchasing a crate is that it must not be too big for your puppy. A puppy confined to a crate large enough may be able to eliminate in one part of the crate, and then move to a different part of the crate. Remember the saying “Stand up, lie down, turn around”. This is how much room your puppy should have in his crate. No more, no less. Also be aware that for the first week or two, it is advisable to not put any absorbent materials in the crate with your puppy. The puppy may find out that he can urinate on these objects then shove them to the back of the crate. Your goal is to teach him to learn not to eliminate in his “home”.

Now that you have the perfect crate for your puppy, it is time to teach him to like being in his crate. During the day when you have him out, leave his crate out with the door propped open. Occasionally toss yummy treats into the crate, and invite him to check it out. Never force him in, but instead allow him to investigate at his own pace. When he does go in to get the treat, praise him excitedly and give him another treat, then allow him to come back out. Repeat this exercise several times until he is happily going into his crate for goodies. You may want to add a voice command at this point, such as “go to bed” or “kennel” so that you can get him to go into his crate whenever you need him to. Now you can start leaving him in the crate for short periods of time. Encourage him to go into his crate again, but this time when he goes in shut the door for a few seconds. If he does not protest, open the door and give him lots of praise and treats. Do this several times throughout the day, gradually extending the time he stays in the crate. Never let him out if he cries or protests, wait until he has calmed down first. Feeding him his meals in his crate is also helpful for getting him to enjoy being in the crate. Never make a big deal about him coming out of the crate; your goal is to create a puppy that adores his crate.

Other Forms of Containment

The crate is very useful for short-term confinement, but there may be times when you need to leave your puppy for more than a couple hours. This is where a pen or a small area like a bathroom or kitchen comes in handy. When you are unable to be with your puppy for a long period of time, you will need to set up a larger area for him to stay in. The area should be large enough that you can place his crate in it with the door left open, and place newspaper or puppy pads in another corner. Leaving some interactive toys with him is a good idea also, such as a hollow toy stuffed with food or treats.

When your puppy is not in his crate or pen, he should be carefully supervised at all times. A good way to do this is by keeping him on a leash attached to your belt loop, or by tethering the leash to a stable object such as a table leg or a doorknob. This will allow the puppy to be near you while still keeping him from going wherever he wants. Just be sure to never leave the puppy unattended while tethered to an object.

Housetraining Procedures

Now that you know about the different ways of preventing the unwanted behavior, let’s talk about how to train the desired bathroom behavior. The best way to do this is take your puppy out to use the bathroom anytime you think he might need to go. For a very young puppy this can be as often as every two hours. Puppies will also need to go to the bathroom after playing hard, after waking up from a nap, and approximately 15 or 20 minutes after eating or drinking. It is useful to have your puppy on a feeding schedule so you are better able to predict when he will need to go. Also watch you puppy for signs that he needs to go, such as sniffing the ground and circling. When it is time to take him out, pick a designated spot in the yard and take him there every time. Wait in the area about 5 minutes or so, allowing him limited ability to wander. If he does his business, wait until he is finished, and then give him lots of praise and a tasty treat. It can also be useful to begin using a command like “go potty” or “do it” when he begins to eliminate. Eventually he will learn that hearing that command means he is supposed to go. This becomes very useful when you are in a hurry! Once he has gone, you can allow him playtime and a bit more freedom. In the event that your puppy does not go within the time period, take him back inside and put him in his crate. After about 15 minutes repeat the above process. Your puppy will soon learn that eliminating quickly will give him access to playing and free time. It is very important that during the training process you always go outside with him to the bathroom area. If you just open the back door and let him out when he needs to go, you will not be sure that he has actually gone and you won’t be able to reward his good behavior. About an hour or two before bedtime you will want to remove his food and water. Right before bedtime you will want to walk him one last time, and then put him in his crate for the night. Set your alarm to go off once in the middle of the night to take him out. You will probably need to do this for at least the first week or two, until he learns to hold his bladder longer.

Even if you follow all of these rules carefully, it is likely that there will be a mistake at some point. Maybe you got distracted with a phone call or your favorite television show. Whatever the reason, mistakes are bound to happen, so it’s best to know what to do when it does. The most important thing is that you should never punish your puppy for making a mistake. Not only is it likely that your dog will not even associate the punishment with the undesired behavior, but he may learn to fear you and the act of eliminating in front of you. The next time that he needs to go he is likely to sneak off where you can’t see him and then do it. Punishing after the fact is even less likely to be understood by your dog and could cause damage to you and your dog’s relationship. If you happen to catch your puppy in the act of eliminating in the house, try to startle him by making a loud noise, then quickly pick him up and take him outside to his bathroom area. Be sure to clean up all accidents thoroughly using a cleaner designed to remove any odors that may linger and indicate to your dog that this is a good place to go.

Congratulations! You are now well on your way to having a perfectly housetrained dog. Just remember that every dog is different and learns at a different rate. Be patient and persistent and you should be able to pull through just fine. Also be aware that there are always exceptions. If you are still having difficulties after following all of these guidelines, you may want to rule out the possibility of any medical conditions that are causing your puppy problems. And if all else fails, do not hesitate to call on the help of a professional trainer to guide you through the housetraining process. Good luck and happy training!

Book Review-Another Piece of the Puzzle: Puppy Development

I love reading dog books. I'll read any book about dogs I can get my hands on, and of course right now I'm particularly interested in book about puppies. So I've decided to try something new for some of my posts, and that is doing reviews of the books I read.

I just currently finished reading a book called Another Piece of the Puzzle: Puppy Development. This book is actually a collection of articles from various authors that cover subjects such as the periods of puppy development, early training, the best time to place puppies in new homes, socialization, health care, temperament, raising show dogs and choosing an agility dog.

The book is separated into three chapters. The first chapter consists of a single article that thoroughly details the stages of behavioral development in puppies. The article is well researched and very informative. Not only does it cover how puppies develop throughout each period, but it also gives suggestions and advice on things that can be done to help puppies learn and become more confident and stable as they grow. I am particularly interested in the section that discusses how mild stress applied to puppies during the neo-natal period(1-14 days) can create dogs more tolerant of stress as they mature. I am going to look up more information on what they refer to as the "Super Dog" program in the book. While much of the early information on development is geared towards breeders, I think it can be a very helpful resource for the pet owner when they are looking to choose a breeder to get a puppy from. And the later periods of development can be very useful to pet owners. I feel this book is worth it just for this chapter alone.

The next chapter in the book is geared towards breeders. It contains some great articles on the importance or early socialization, teaching, the best times to place a puppy in a new home, a neat article on raising single puppy litters, and an article that I was very excited to see that talks about beginning clicker training at an early age. Once again, while most of these articles were written to help breeders, they can be extremely beneficial for the pet owner to be aware of as well.

The last chapter is more directed towards the pet owner. Information covered here consists of getting to know your breed, nutrition and health, preparing a puppy for dog shows(I found this article to be useful for preparing a dog for other sports as well), picking an agility dog, and teaching your puppy to learn and think.

Overall I found this book to be a wonderful read, full of excellent information and sound advice. I would recommend anyone who is planning to get a puppy(especially if you are looking for a performance or show dog) to check out this book. It is not a book that is going to detail how to train and raise your puppy step by step, there are several other books I would recommend for that. But it does get you started in the right direction. :)